Awakenings

This is just a couple of stories from the past few days, so no illustrations; sorry. While visiting the research center where Camille works (Kenya Agricultural Research Institute) during our short 2-day visit to this town (Embu) in late July, I recalled seeing rugby field goal posts. The image stuck in my mind, and I was determined to go see; but I didn't. We moved here in late August and I just couldn't motivate myself to do much outside the house. Working, watching pirated DVDs, cooking with all the great stuff I can buy at the market here, etc. just seemed more important that "socializing" and being active. But when Camille left for the U.S., I started to get very antsy. So I decided to go check out the Kangaru Boys School, right across from KARI, and see if they needed an assistant coach. Turns out they do. First you have figure out the story you're gonna tell to the guard who blocks the entrance. Kenya is even worse than Japan or France or, even the U.S. in that they love paperwork. You could even fake it, as long as it has something printed and a signature, but you need something. Since I didn't have any, I had to talk with him for about 10 minutes. But eventually, he understood, checked my bag (luckily I'd left my firearms and stolen passports at home), and let me go in. I met with a really nice, but long-winded guy named Mr. Njiru who is the official coach. (This is all happening on Wednesday). He invited me to come back at 5 and start being the acting coach since he and another guy who comes every couple of weeks when he has time are both busy. When I arrived, I saw a pretty rag-tag bunch of kids, some sneakers, some bare feet, and maybe one pair of actual soccer cleats. I met the team and got started. Mr. Njiru likes to say inspiring things to the kids like "Look a Ph.D. student has come to support you! You must really appreciate how many people want you to succeed" and with that kind of introduction, I suppose it's hard for high school boys not to be polite. Practice went well, and the kids actually know how to play rugby a bit. So we'll see how it goes. To celebrate, last night the neighbor boy (we live in a compound with 4 houses all occupied by KARI staff ), a 27 year old son of a scientist, and I went to have a few beers in town. Although all my other acquaintances go to the pricey place right across from our house, we went into town... In town, you can drink old sop (I guess it's a bit like Pabst...) for 25 shillings or abou 40 cents U.S. That really hit the spot, and we had a good talk about many things from music to race to whatever else. But when I told him more about my job, he told me something that I didn't expect. This revelation indeed turned out to be both true and super interesting.

Bernard (the neighbor) mentioned that there were Japanese people in Embu. I thought that he was mistaken, but nonetheless the idea stuck in my mind. I asked him about that again, and he admitted that they might be from China. Given the limited role of Japan in Africa in general in comparison to the enormous role of China, I was pretty sure he was wrong about the nationality. This morning, I kept thinking "how can I procrastinate a bit more, just a bit more?," and the answer was "search for something on the internet that you won't be able to find." So I did. But I didn't expect to find out that Bernard was right. After searching (and not finding, which was the point), I stumbled across a few references down in the text of some web pages. I appeared that in Kenya, the Tenri group is quite present. Tenri is the administrative and missionary arm of Tenrikyou Japan's largest "new religion," combining elements of Buddhism, Christianity, and other more "new age" beliefs. I tried a few different numbers (still not finding, but starting to think that I might find), and finally I got one that worked. As soon as the polite voice on the other end said "hello," I knew I was on the line with a Japanese speaker (female) who then passed me to an older, man. In fact, there is a Tenri Clinic and academy here in Embu. Although its only be a few months since I left Tokyo, I could feel the rust squeaking and cracking as I conversed with the guy, but it felt real' good. So in addition to my coaching, beginning next Tuesday, I will be volunteering at the Tenri Clinic (and speaking Japanese with Japanese people). This may turn out to be a research project one day, like "Japanese New Religion in Rural Kenya: A Case Study of Tenrikyou in Embu". But for now I'm just excited to get on board.